Archive for the Surfing Category

Facing off with OB

Posted in Surfing with tags , , , , on April 5, 2011 by crystalvoyager

When I moved to The Peninsula, as locals call it, I didn’t know where my spot was going to be.  It was late October and we were headed toward the North Pacific winter. Despite being early in the year, there was a big swell in the water.  I figured I would start north and work my way down until I saw something I liked.  I started at Ocean Beach.

75, sunny, no wind and solid surf.  There was barely anyone out and it was firing.  I looked no further.  In fact, I didn’t even stop for long enough to look at the other people paddling out.  I found a spot near Noriega, suited up and paddled out on my 6’4”.

Half way through the lines of white water, I realized why there were few people out.  I realized that I might not even make it out.  Ocean Beach is punishing.  The paddle is like nothing I have ever experienced.  I come from the land of perfect pointbreaks where even on double overhead days you can get out without getting your hair wet.

I was undergunned by a long shot and I was way out of shape.  A summer of not paddling or surfing much left me in inferior surf shape.  Any normal year I would slowly work myself back into shape with a bunch of longboard sessions before the real winter swells started.  This year was months of no surf and straight into triple overhead surf.

An hour into my attempt, I abandoned ship, conceded defeat and headed in, knowing that this would probably not be the last time OB kicked my ass.  On the beach I noticed what should have been a sign before I headed out.  Everyone was riding 8’+ boards, most in the 9 range.  Though I could barely lift my arms, I got in touch with Rincon Designs and ordered a 7’6” immediately.

I was out of my element, out of shape and thoroughly defeated.  Despite the ordeal, I took an instant shine to OB.  There’s something to the challenge of raw open ocean that hooked me on the first day.  It immediately became my spot.

 

One Year Later

Posted in Surfing with tags , , on April 2, 2011 by crystalvoyager

When this site was started almost a year ago, the thought was that it would be an insight into what surfing and ocean activities, for that matter, are in Santa Barbara.  All was off to a great start.  Then, within the month, I agreed to move way far away from Santa Barbara – to the landlocked environs of the Silicon Valley, no less.  45 minutes to San Francisco.  45 minutes to Half Moon Bay.  45 minutes to Santa Cruz.  As a surfer, 45 minutes toward Hell.

For the next 5 months, preparations were made to move us and the business.  End result is relocation to Menlo Park, a boat (still) for sale and many surfboards left behind in an undisclosed location in Santa Barbara County.

Six months into the Menlo Park Experiment I have learned a lot.  The highlights:

  1. The water is every bit as cold up here as I thought.  There are times when it is painfully cold.  The 5 or so degrees colder here than south of Point Conception is a critical 5 degrees.
  2. There is a lot of good surf here.  And there are many days with good conditions.  Everyone knows about Santa Cruz but I have been pleasantly surprised by other places, including Ocean Beach, which I thought was always too windy to be good.  That is usually not the case, but don’t tell anyone.
  3. The ocean is big.  It will kick your ass.  You will be Tombstoned.  Prepare for it.
  4. There are a whole lot of Santa Barbara connections up here.  It is rare that I surf up here without seeing someone I know.  Despite the flood of new surfers in the past 15 years, the core surf world is small.

For me, surfing whenever there is a swell is out.  I can’t get to the beach, surf and get back from the beach before work.  That is a major lifestyle change and is a major adjustment.  However, there is a lot of surf up here.  There is even good surf up here.  It just takes some adjustment.

Never Ending Spring

Posted in Surfing with tags , , , on May 29, 2010 by crystalvoyager

Spring seems to last forever in Santa Barbara.  Most places in the world, that would probably be considered a good thing.  The temperature is good, flowers are out, not too many bugs.  But it Santa Barbara, the Spring has always been a bit painful for me.  We get a lot of wind which puts a damper on surfing,  paddling and boating.  Our water is the coldest it gets all year.  And it is long, often stretching from February until May or June .

Josh Farberow, Rincon Fall 2009

With the winter surf season over, the sheltered beaches of Santa Barbara are not due for a rideable swell until October.  The wait begins…